Thursday 5 May 2022

Side by side : A pair from The Wine Society

The Wine Society bottles and sells a lot of wine, but they have been releasing whisky for over 60 years too.



Here I've got two to try!




DramHighlandSpeyside
Characteristics40% ABV
NAS
Bottled 1960's/70's
46% ABV
30yo
Distilled 1991, bottled 2021
Distillery notesNoneThese are the last four hogsheads (7239-42) and two butts (7236-7) of this sublime 1991 Speyside from a single distiller. The malt has an expressive nose of candied orange peel and dried apricots with subtle oak, clove spice and flaked sea salt on the finish. A rare and superlative dram. 
My thoughts: 
Appearance
Mid gold in the glass, swirls leave a thick line in the glass which beads up and falls as quick thin legs.Mid gold in the glass, swirls leave a thick line in the glass which beads up and falls as quick thin legs.
NoseA closed to start but some patience is rewarded with orchard fruit, honey and a little toffee.Again a little closed, 30 years has really sent this dram to sleep. A little time, air and some serious swirling offers orchard fruit and citrus rather than sherry and jam notes. There's a little oak, salted caramel and some turmeric.
PalateSmooth fruity arrival, orchard fruit from the nose: apples, pears and apricots; a little honey and a gentle bite of peppery spice as the liquid disappears. Warming, leaves a drying caramel note on the tongue and a little brown sugar.Spicy arrival, honey, salted caramel and some cheap strawberry jam. There are some dried fruit notes with a little honey but the peppery spice prevails whilst the liquid is in the mouth and there's an unpleasant turmeric and sour citrus note as it goes.
FinishLong dry brown sugar a little peppery spice.Medium length spicy with a little sweetness.
OverallThe Highland reminded me a lot of a Glenmorangie - simple and uncomplicated, the Speyside has just too spicy - it ruined an old dram that should have been full of flavour and complexity. It's make up of 4 hogsheads and 2 butts is a little strange - maybe trying to mask something?

I've heard good things about other Wine Society bottlings so don't let me put you off trying them - the Highland unicorn was pleasant enough!.

Thanks to @Andrews_Share for the Highland sample - sorry it's taken so long to open it! Thanks(?) to @whiskytip for the Speyside sample.

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